Consumers are increasingly seeking natural and clean beauty formulations. Here’s how to choose the right preservatives.
By Dr. Barbara Olioso RMSC, The Green Chemist Consultancy
Over the past two decades, the cosmetics industry has experienced remarkable growth and transformation. This evolution extends beyond product development to consumer preferences, which have shifted from a focus on product efficacy to a desire for formulations that reflect personal values and beliefs. As an industry professional, I’ve witnessed first-hand how cosmetic preservatives have evolved to meet these changing demands.
The Historical Perspective on Cosmetic Preservatives
The Age of Innocence
In the early days, preservation was handled discreetly within the industry. Formulators selected from a regulated list of preservatives (Annex V), which specified maximum concentration limits. Consumers rarely questioned these ingredients—most couldn’t even pronounce their names. These synthetic preservatives offered consistent chemical composition, established modes of action, cost-effectiveness, and comprehensive safety data.
The Age of Controversy
The industry’s innocence faded when controversies surrounding parabens began to emerge. Suddenly, consumers became aware of preservatives and their potential health implications. With limited additional data provided by manufacturers, parabens faced regulatory restrictions, causing producers to switch to alternative preservatives.
This shift led to increased skin exposure to preservatives like methylisothiazolinone (MI) and methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI) in leave-on products. The resulting skin reactions prompted regulators to limit these preservatives to rinse-off applications only. Today, phenoxyethanol (which may affect product viscosity) and organic acids like sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate (pH-sensitive but compatible with organic certifications) are Europe’s most commonly used cosmetic preservatives.
The Clean Beauty Movement and Its Impact on Preservatives
The parabens controversy birthed the first “free-from” claim—”paraben-free”—which remains one of the most popular green claims consumers seek. For many, this claim has become synonymous with “natural,” though industry professionals understand the reality is more complex.
In today’s digital landscape, consumer searches reveal an incredible variety of “paraben-free” queries across product categories, from antiperspirants to hair dyes and sunscreens. Equally telling is the high number of “preservative-free” searches, indicating a general mistrust of preservatives not just in cosmetics but also in food, eye drops, and even vaccines.
Retailers have responded accordingly. Sephora developed its own clean beauty seal that excludes parabens, phthalates, formaldehyde-releasing agents, and triclosan. Amazon US recently launched a restricted chemicals list for personal care, household, and beauty products that similarly prohibits these ingredients.
Regulatory Challenges and Consumer Confusion
In Europe, regulators attempted to curb “free-from” claims through Regulation 655/2013, which prohibits “paraben-free” claims as they denigrate legally permitted ingredients. However, consumers—who have limited understanding of cosmetic complexity—remain attached to these claims and their association with naturalness and safety.
The global nature of e-commerce means consumers can still find products from North America or Asia where such claims are permitted, creating a commercial disadvantage for European products and potentially increasing consumer confusion. A more effective solution might involve addressing the definition of “natural” for cosmetics. The Natural Cosmetics Act in the US offers an interesting framework that could benefit Europe in defining natural and naturally-derived cosmetic claims.
Cosmetic Preservatives as a Reflection of Consumer Values
The 2019 Cosmoprof edition highlighted sustainability, revealing consumer desires for products that are petrochemical-free, 100% natural, transparent, and environmentally friendly. These responses demonstrate consumers’ wish to align purchasing decisions with personal values and their expectation that brands will deliver accordingly.
Major companies have recognized this shift. Unilever pledged €1 billion to a climate and nature fund, while Johnson & Johnson committed $800 million to make its products more sustainable. These investments signal that industry leaders understand the need to align with consumer values, as today’s consumers increasingly spend money in accordance with their principles.
The Formulator’s Dilemma: Safety vs. Natural Preservation
The cosmetics industry faces a significant challenge: consumer mistrust of traditional preservatives, the unlikely introduction of new preservatives to Annex V, and growing demand for greener, milder products. Since cosmetic preservation remains essential for product safety, what solutions are available?
For the past twenty years, the answer has increasingly been multifunctional cosmetic ingredients with antimicrobial properties. Raw material suppliers have used green chemistry to develop and manufacture cosmetic ingredients from natural sources that offer consistent composition and good biodegradability. The number of these ingredients—and products protected by them—continues to grow.
Modern Multifunctional Cosmetic Preservatives
Today’s multifunctional preservatives include:
- Surfactants (detergents, emulsifiers, wetting agents)
- Humectants
- Masking agents or fragrant ingredients
- Antioxidants
- Moisturizers
- Antimicrobials
- Skin conditioners
These ingredients serve primary functions while delivering additional antimicrobial benefits. With numerous options available, exposure to any single substance tends to be lower than with traditional preservatives, which are becoming fewer while the cosmetics industry continues to grow.
Examples include:
- Levulinic acid: An organic acid with fragrant properties and effective antibacterial action, derived from sugarcane via biotechnology
- Hinokitiol: A tropolone derivative with antioxidant and antifungal properties from Thuja tree sawdust (though it can also be petrochemically derived, requiring verification of natural sourcing)
Implementing Green Chemistry in Preservative Systems
Multifunctional preservatives present greater complexity than traditional options:
- They typically aren’t broad-spectrum (some are antibacterial, others antifungal)
- They may require customized blends based on formulation and application
- They cost more than petrochemical alternatives due to their natural sourcing
Depending on budget and application, multifunctionals can be used to:
- Create proprietary blends for broad protection
- Implement as ready-made blends
- Use lower levels of traditional preservatives through synergistic combinations with multifunctionals
Whatever the choice the Green Chem Finder is available as a valuable resource to find suitable ingredients and suppliers according to over 20 criteria.
Today, the preservative system forms an integral part of a cosmetic product’s green positioning. Products with organic certification require compliant preservative systems, as do products claiming to be 100% natural.
Conclusion: Balancing Emotion, Regulation, and Science
Cosmetics remain an emotional purchase, with consumer desire for natural, sustainable, and safer products driving the industry toward alternative preservation solutions. While European regulatory restrictions on “free-from” claims haven’t addressed consumer needs to distinguish natural from non-natural products, the US is developing promising frameworks for defining natural and naturally-derived cosmetic claims.
The industry must still comply with current regulations while using sound science to produce safe, appealing products. The tension between emotion and regulation presents a significant dilemma. A winning approach involves green chemistry multifunctionals that appeal to environmentally conscious consumers while meeting safety standards.
Using multifunctionals in combination with traditional preservatives offers the potential benefit of reducing exposure to conventional preservatives, potentially mitigating the risk of further regulatory restrictions. This balanced approach satisfies both consumer preferences and safety requirements in modern cosmetic formulations.
Disclaimer: The information provided is for general information purposes only. All information is provided in good faith; however, the author makes no representation or warranty regarding the accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability, or completeness of any information in this article.