An interesting article on BBC Science Focus talks about an innovative and potentially disruptive way of making emollients for the beauty industry without causing deforestation.
Breakthrough: Yeast-Based Palm Oil Replacement
Researchers at the University of Bath have developed a fermentation-based oil using the yeast Metschnikowia pulcherrima. This yeast, already familiar in winemaking, has been adapted to produce up to 50% fat content through a process called directed evolution, a non-GMO technique.
How It Works
- Fermentation process: The yeast grows in vats similar to breweries.
- Feedstock: It is fed with food-industry waste such as bread or potatoes, supporting a circular economy.
- Oil extraction: Once harvested, the yeast cells are lysed to release oil, which is refined like traditional vegetable oils.
- Co-products: Residual biomass provides natural emulsifiers and beta-glucans, useful functional ingredients.
- Customisation: By adjusting pH, temperature, and nutrients, the oil’s texture and fatty acid profile can be tuned for specific applications, from solid balms to lightweight creams.
Sustainability and Supply Chain Benefits
- 95% lower CO₂ emissions compared to palm oil plantations.
- Minimal land use: potential to free up land area equivalent to Argentina.
- Local production reduces transport emissions and supply risks.
- Upcycling food waste lowers costs and enhances sustainability credentials.
Applications in Cosmetics
For formulators and suppliers, yeast-derived oil presents exciting opportunities:
- Functional versatility: works in balms, emulsions, creams, and surfactants.
- Tunable textures: can mimic palm oil’s solid structure or softer plant oils.
- Marketing advantage: fermentation-derived and sustainable sourcing support brand storytelling.
- Resilient sourcing: reduces dependency on volatile palm oil markets.
Commercial Timeline
According to Prof. Chris Chuck, the first cosmetic applications of yeast-based palm oil alternatives are expected to be available by late 2025 or early 2026, with food industry adoption following soon after.
Key Takeaways for Beauty Brands and Formulators
- Yeast-derived palm oil alternatives combine performance, sustainability, and supply security.
- Brands adopting early can position themselves as leaders in green innovation.
- With commercial launch on the horizon, now is the time to explore partnerships and pilot projects.
FAQs
When will yeast-derived palm oil alternatives be available for cosmetics?
Late 2025 to early 2026, according to University of Bath researchers.
How do yeast oils compare to palm oil in formulations?
They can be tuned to match palm oil’s texture and melting point, making them suitable for creams, balms, and solid emulsions.
What are the sustainability benefits of yeast-based oils?
They reduce CO₂ emissions by up to 95%, require far less land, and use food waste as feedstock, supporting a circular economy.
You can read the full article on BBC Science Focus
Or access the Green Chem Finder Compendium