The recent FDA-announced recall of Neutrogena MAKEUP REMOVER ULTRA-SOFT CLEANSING TOWELETTES (plant-based, compostable wipes) due to contamination with Pluralibacter gergoviae has sent a clear signal to cosmetic formulators:
👉 Sustainable substrates fundamentally change the preservation challenge.
According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, the recall affects multi-pack plant-based wipes intended for direct skin contact—exactly the type of format growing fastest in “eco-designed” personal care.
Why Pluralibacter gergoviae Is a Red Flag for Formulators
Pluralibacter gergoviae (formerly Enterobacter gergoviae) is notorious in cosmetics microbiology:
- Highly adapted to aqueous environments
- Frequently associated with water systems and processing environments
- Known for reduced susceptibility to several preservative classes
- Historically linked to wipe, lotion, and surfactant-based products
While not typically pathogenic to healthy consumers, its presence is unacceptable under cosmetic GMP and often indicates systemic weaknesses rather than a one-off failure.
The Technical Challenge: Why Wipes Are High Risk by Design
From a formulation and manufacturing standpoint, compostable wipes combine several risk factors:
1. Plant-Based, Compostable Substrates
Cellulose-rich fibers can:
- Retain moisture
- Provide micro-niches for bacteria
- Interact with (and reduce availability of) preservatives
2. High Water Activity
Wipes are essentially:
A hydrated solid matrix + free water + surfactants
An ideal growth environment if preservation is not perfectly tuned.
3. Leave-On Skin Contact
Unlike rinse-off products:
- Preservative latitude is narrower
- Mildness expectations are higher
- Antimicrobial robustness is harder to achieve
Preserving Against P. gergoviae: What Actually Works?
This organism is challenging precisely because “standard” preservation approaches often fail.
🛡️ Broad-Spectrum Preservative Strategies
Formulators often report better outcomes with:
- Blended systems targeting Gram-negative bacteria
- Multiple modes of action (not single-preservative reliance)
- Careful consideration of substrate adsorption effects
What works in emulsions may underperform in wipes.
🛡️ Broad-Spectrum Preservative Strategies
Formulators often report better outcomes with:
- Blended systems targeting Gram-negative bacteria
- Multiple modes of action (not single-preservative reliance)
- Careful consideration of substrate adsorption effects
What works in emulsions may underperform in wipes.
⚙️ Hurdle Technology Is No Longer Optional
Effective wipe preservation increasingly relies on layered barriers, such as:
- Water activity reduction (within usability limits)
- pH optimisation
- Chelation strategies
- Process hygiene as a preservation tool
🧪 Challenge Testing for Wipes (Not Creams)
Key point:
➡️ Standard PET protocols may not reflect real wipe behaviour.
The Bigger Lesson for Sustainable Formulation
The Neutrogena recall is not just about one bacterium or one brand.
💡 As cosmetic substrates evolve, preservation strategies must evolve faster.
Plant-based, compostable materials:
- Change preservative availability
- Alter microbial ecology
- Expose weaknesses in “legacy” preservation thinking
For formulators, this means:
- Earlier microbiology input during product design
- Closer collaboration with substrate suppliers
- Rethinking preservation as a system, not an ingredient
How the Green Chem Finder help you
As this is a rather challenging application we are planning to have a list of blends tested for P Gergoviae. In the meantime check our compendium