Dermosoft 1388 eco

This blend utilizes a dual organic acid approach, where levulinic acid and p-anisic acid are delivered as sodium salts for optimal stability and solubility. These salts are regenerated into their active “free acid” forms when the formulation pH is adjusted below 5.5. Beyond preservation, p-anisic acid provides documented calming activity by modulating the arachidonic acid pathway.

Key Benefit: Achieves Criteria A efficacy across all five test organisms in surfactant-based systems when used as a standalone solution.

Performance & Antimicrobial Strategy

  • Spectrum: Rated “very good” across Gram-positive bacteria, Gram-negative bacteria, yeast, and mould.
  • Emulsion Synergy: In O/W emulsions, the blend achieved Criteria A for P. aeruginosa and E. coli, but required a co-active for C. albicans.
  • The Booster Effect: Combining 3.0% dermosoft® 1388 eco with dermosoft® GMCY MB at pH 5.3 allowed all five organisms to reach Criteria A.
  • Secondary Functions: Glycerol provides moisturization, while the blend offers a gentle masking scent that does not interfere with added fragrances.

Critical Formulation & Solubility Guidelines

Formulators must navigate the pKa of p-anisic acid (4.47) and its tendency to crystallize.

ParameterSpecification / Recommendation
Final pH Targetregister to find out
Aqueous SystemspH must be above 7 before incorporation to avoid premature crystallization
Maximum Dosage2.5% in aqueous systems (plus a solvent or solubiliser)
Solubility BoostersEthanol, surfactants, or glycols
Risk FactorOverdosage or pH shifts can cause irreversible crystallization

Emulsions: Add to the water phase.

Rinse-off Products: Mix directly with surfactants.

Boosting (Aqueous): Combine with additional organic acids (e.g., dermosoft® 700B) or phenethyl alcohol.

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Primary Function(s)
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INCI Name
Glycerin, Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate
CAS Number(s)
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Use Levels
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Free from Annex V or Preservative Free
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Application Type
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Synergistic blend

Cosmetic Science Criteria

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Green Criteria

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Natural Origin Index (ISO 16128)
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COSMOS Status
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Vegan
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Palm Status
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Palm Free
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Wild Harvested
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Biodegradability
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EWG Score
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Halal
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Upcycled
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Regulatory Status

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